Duration : acclimatization, 2 days and 8 days in trekking and mountain.
Itinerary:
1 day.- Leaving Huaraz early we drive a short way north ( 1 : 30 hs ), downstream in the Callejon de Huaylas, the large valley that borders the Cordillera Blanca on its west side. Soon we turn east and climb up to the town of Honcopampa (3,200 m.)
The trek normally takes only about 4 hours to Akilpo lake, we will crossing for a forest of "quenuales". The view to Tocllaraju mountaing is amazing.
Day 2.- Trekking from quebrada Akilpo to quebrada ishinca, we will crossing the pass Akilpo (4800 m.).This day is really "alpine" trek.
Day 3 We wake up early at 2 am. for the ascent of Urus. After breakfast we live from our camp at 3 am. Our route up the southeast ridge are a rock and on snow presents a few difficulties pass, climb in the nicer glacier for final steep summit slope. Roundtrip will take between 10-12 hours.
Day 4.- Rest in the base camp..
Day 5: We wake up early in the morning at 2 am breakfast, prepare all the our mountain gear, our ascent of Ishinca ( north roth ) is over easy glacier terrain, perfect for perfecting our rope traveling technique. Our way up one route and descending another way near of the foot of Ranrapalca mountain.After the climb we return to base camp.
The descent is for the south route.
Day 6.- After breakfast we live from or base camp, once again we make our way to a higher camp for the climb of our main objective nevado Tocllaraju. From our high camp at 5150 m. We have incredible views of the surrounding peaks and the valley and lakes far below. Dinner and early to bed
Day 7.- We live early in the night at 1 am from the high camp. This will be a long day for the climb of Tocllaraju. Easy to moderate glacier terrain leads to the final summit pyramid where we encounter several steep snow and ice pitches up to 70 degrees that may require belaying depending on conditions. Actually, the route has two ice walls, one on the middle of the route (60 m.- 70 º) and another on finish (100 m. 60 - 70 º)
The accent of this peak is more technical and will challenge all of the skills we have developed. If we have a good weather conditions the views is a incredible panoramic around you're from Toclllaraju's summit. From the summit we descend to our high camp for one final night in the Cordillera Blanca. Return to base camp.
Day 8 : Return to Huaraz.
Note: For experimented climbers, we have the option Tocllaraju west face (600 m. D+)
Recommended date : April - October
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