Duration : Acclimatization, 2 days and 16 days in mountain.
The first day , A Leaving Huaraz early we drive a short way north, downstream in the Callejon de Huaylas, the large valley that borders the Cordillera Blanca on its west side. Soon we turn east and climb up to the town of Pashpa (3,400 m.) From here, we load our equipment on burros and begin the easy trek into Base Camp. The trek normally takes only about 4 hours. This is a lovely walk, passing through dense forests of Quenual trees before emerging into the upper broad valley where we will establish our base camp at about 4,350 m.
Is possible to visit the refuge "Ishinca" in the environs of base camp.
Day 2: We wake up early at 2 am. for the ascent of Urus. After breakfast we live from our camp at 3 am. Our route up the southeast ridge are a rock and on snow presents a few difficulties pass, climb in the nicer glacier for final steep summit slope. Roundtrip will take between 10-12 hours.
Day 3.- Rest in the base camp.
Day 4: We wake up early in the morning at 2 am breakfast, prepare all the our mountain gear, our ascent of Ishinca ( north roth ) is over easy glacier terrain, perfect for perfecting our rope traveling technique. Our way up one route and descending another way near of the foot of Ranrapalca mountain.After the climb we return to base camp.
The descent is for the south route.
Day 5.- After breakfast we live from or base camp, once again we make our way to a higher camp for the climb of our main objective nevado Tocllaraju. From our high camp at 5150 m. We have incredible views of the surrounding peaks and the valley and lakes far below. Dinner and early to bed
Day 6.-We live early in the night at 1 am from the high camp. This will be a long day for the climb of Tocllaraju. Easy to moderate glacier terrain leads to the final summit pyramid where we encounter several steep snow and ice pitches up to 70 degrees that may require belaying depending on conditions. Actually, the route has two ice walls, one on the middle of the route (60 m.- 70 º) and another on finish (100 m. 60 - 70 º)
The accent of this peak is more technical and will challenge all of the skills we have developed. If we have a good weather conditions the views is a incredible panoramic around you're from Toclllaraju's summit. From the summit we descend to our high camp for one final night in the Cordillera Blanca. Return to base camp.
Day 7 : Return to base camp on Ishinca valley and hike out for the road head to Huaraz.
note: For experimented climbers, we have the option for the west face (600 m. D / 60 - 80 º)
Day 8.-Rest in Huaraz
ALPAMAYO - QUITARAJU ASCENT
DAY 9 .- This day , Leaving early we drive to the northern end of the range to the town of Cashapampa (2,900 m.). This is where we begin the two day trek to Base Camp. We enter the valley of the Rio Santa Cruz, narrow at its entrance but widening as we climb further into the range.
After about a 4 - 5 hour walk (including breaks) we arrive at our first camp, Llamacorral, at 3,800 m.
DAY 10 .- We start trekking, after our breakfast, passing the blue-green colour lakes called Ichik Cocha and Jatun Cocha ( Small and big lake in "Quechua", in 4 - 5 hours we have got the Base Camp Arhuaycocha (4200 m. aprox.), then we'll start to prepare our climbing equipment for the next day.
DAY 11 .- Climb to the Col camp at 5300m. (This section can sometimes be the most technical part of the entire climb). The high col is between Alpamayo and it's sister peak, Quitaraju. The guides always climb first of group on one steep section.
DAY 12 .-Ascent to the summit of Alpamayo, will reach at 5947m. The climb starts with a reasonably steep glacier to the bergschrund. There are several steep ice pitches, around 65°. The final couple of pitches increase to 75 - 80° resulting in grading of around Alpine D/D+ or Ice Grade 4. The route will be Ferrari. We allow 7 hours to reach the summit. Return to the Col Camp.
We don´t use fixe ropes for respect to the mountain.
The route will choose depend of the conditions in the mountain (Since 2007 be used the called "French route" 450 m., that really is the Ferrari route - 1975)
Our team of mountan guides made again the Ferrari route in 2007. Now, all the people used this route.
Day 13.- Rest in camp 1 (optional)
Day 14.- Ascento to Quitaraju north wall - 400 m. 55 - 60 degrees. The route finish is for the ridge before to the summit.
Return to high camp o base camp.
Day 15: Return to the base camp.
Day 16: Return to Cashapampa and then Huaraz.
Recommended date : May - September