Duration : Acclimatization, 2 days and 8 days in mountain.
ALPAMAYO - QUITARAJU ASCENT
DAY 1 .- This day , Leaving early we drive to the northern end of the range to the town of Cashapampa (2,900 m.). This is where we begin the two day trek to Base Camp. We enter the valley of the Rio Santa Cruz, narrow at its entrance but widening as we climb further into the range.
After about a 4 - 5 hour walk (including breaks) we arrive at our first camp, Llamacorral, at 3,800 m.
DAY 2 .- We start trekking, after our breakfast, passing the blue-green colour lakes called Ichik Cocha and Jatun Cocha ( Small and big lake in "Quechua", in 4 - 5 hours we have got the Base Camp Arhuaycocha (4200 m. aprox.), then we'll start to prepare our climbing equipment for the next day.
DAY 3 .- Climb to the Col camp at 5300m. (This section can sometimes be the most technical part of the entire climb). The high col is between Alpamayo and it's sister peak, Quitaraju. The guides always climb first of group on one steep section.
DAY 4 .- Ascent to the summit of Alpamayo, will reach at 5947m. The climb starts with a reasonably steep glacier to the bergschrund. There are several steep ice pitches, around 65°. The final couple of pitches increase to 75 - 80° resulting in grading of around Alpine D/D+ or Ice Grade 4. The route will be Ferrari. We allow 7 hours to reach the summit. Return to the Col Camp.
We don´t use fixe ropes for respect to the mountain.
The route will choose depend of the conditions in the mountain (Since 2007 be used the called "French route" 450 m., that really is the Ferrari route - 1975)
Our team of mountan guides made again the Ferrari route in 2007. Now, all the people used this route.
Day 5.- Rest in camp 1 (optional)
Day 6.- Ascento to Quitaraju north wall - 400 m. 55 - 60 degrees. The route finish is for the ridge before to the summit.
Return to high camp o base camp.
Day 7: Return to the base camp.
Day 8: Return to Cashapampa and then Huaraz.
Recommended date : May - September