Duration : Acclimatization, 2 days and 12 days in mountain.
Itinerary:
The first day , A Leaving Huaraz early we drive a short way north, downstream in the Callejon de Huaylas, the large valley that borders the Cordillera Blanca on its west side. Soon we turn east and climb up to the town of Pashpa (3,400 m.) From here, we load our equipment on burros and begin the easy trek into Base Camp. The trek normally takes only about 4 hours. This is a lovely walk, passing through dense forests of Quenual trees before emerging into the upper broad valley where we will establish our base camp at about 4,350 m.
Is possible to visit the refuge "Ishinca" in the environs of base camp.
Day 2: We wake up early at 2 am. for the ascent of Urus. After breakfast we live from our camp at 3 am. Our route up the southeast ridge are a rock and on snow presents a few difficulties pass, climb in the nicer glacier for final steep summit slope. Roundtrip will take between 10-12 hours.
Day 3.- Rest in the base camp.
Day 4: We wake up early in the morning at 2 am breakfast, prepare all the our mountain gear, our ascent of Ishinca ( north roth ) is over easy glacier terrain, perfect for perfecting our rope traveling technique. Our way up one route and descending another way near of the foot of Ranrapalca mountain.After the climb we return to base camp.
The descent is for the south route.
Day 5.- After breakfast we live from or base camp, once again we make our way to a higher camp for the climb of our main objective nevado Tocllaraju. From our high camp at 5150 m. We have incredible views of the surrounding peaks and the valley and lakes far below. Dinner and early to bed
Day 6.-We live early in the night at 1 am from the high camp. This will be a long day for the climb of Tocllaraju. Easy to moderate glacier terrain leads to the final summit pyramid where we encounter several steep snow and ice pitches up to 70 degrees that may require belaying depending on conditions. Actually, the route has two ice walls, one on the middle of the route (60 m.- 70 º) and another on finish (100 m. 60 - 70 º)
The accent of this peak is more technical and will challenge all of the skills we have developed. If we have a good weather conditions the views is a incredible panoramic around you're from Toclllaraju's summit. From the summit we descend to our high camp for one final night in the Cordillera Blanca. Return to base camp.
Day 7 : Return to base camp on Ishinca valley and hike out for the road head to Huaraz.
note: For experimented climbers, we have the option for the west face (600 m. D / 60 - 80 º)
Day 8.-Rest in Huaraz
ARTESONRAJU CLIMB
Day 9:Huaraz - Trekking to base camp (4,500 m.).
From Huaraz, we will go in our bus to Paron Lake (4140 m.)
Ascent to base camp, the route takes a moraine ridge and crosses rock slabs across the edge of the glacier to reach an area of tent platforms (3 hours).
Day 10: Ascent to Col camp (5,200m).
The route above moraine camp continues over ice and moraine before a 300-metre snow couloir leads to the Artesonraju Col. This is a fantastic position at the foot of the South east face.
Day 11 : Artesonraju summit day.
The route from the col crosses the snow bowl and climbs up to the bergschrund below the South east face. After crossing the "rimaya" (crevasse before the wall ), we are on the main face and the snow wall;There are 900 m., mostly 60°, leading rightwards through runnels and flutings, past abseil anchors to the summit ridge. The final couple of pitches steepen up to a juicy 70° and overall, the climbing is around Alpine D or Ice Grade 3. It should take approximately 8 hours to reach the summit. We descend by abseil and return to the camp on the col.
Long day.
Day 12: Descent to Paron Lake and return to Huaraz.
Recommended date : June - September
