Duration : acclimatization, 2 days and 9 days in mountain.
Huaraz (3100 m.) Cebollpampa (3850 m.) in vehicle.
DAY 1 .- The walk to Pisco base camp path meanders from the valley floor, crossing several rivers, before ascending the hillside. Finally, the sparse trees give way to an open valley at the head of which we will find the base camp and refuge "Peru". (4750 m.)
We follow the morain terrain to "morain camp" (4900 m.) The camp will be close to little lake.
The view from there are really amazing to Yanapaccaha, Huandoy, Chopicalqui, Huascarán ...
DAY 2 .- 3 a.m. start the ascent to the summit.
We will gain the glacier just beyond the lake and follow it without difficulty to the Huandoy-Pisco Col (5,350m). From here, the route climbs broad slopes towards the summit. Although never steep (up to 45°), we will need to be careful in picking our route through crevasses and over snow bridges before approaching the final summit section. Here we may encounter the steepest snow slope, a short pitch of 50 - 60 º, before pulling on to the summit. Our ascent will be rewarded by absolutely brilliant views ( 360 °), especially of Chacraraju and Huascaran.
Is the most view from a summit in cordillera Blanca.
Some seasons, is posible find ice walls ( 10 - 30 m./ 65 - 70 º).
Return to base camp.
DAY 3 .- Descent to cebollapampa and return to Huaraz.
DAY 4 .- Rest in Huaraz.
DAY 5.- Leaving Huaraz very early on this day we drive to the town of Musho (3400 m.), the jumping off point for Huascarán. Here, we load our gear on burros we hike with day packs to Huascarán Base Camp at an elevation of 4,200 m. The walk to Base Camp normally takes about 4 hours
DAY 6.- As we climb above Base Camp the route becomes more difficult, taking a complex path up and around huge glacially polished granite slabs.
Before the glacier is possible to visit refuge "Don Bosco" 4,900 m.
We arrive at the edge of the ice itself. An additional 2 hours of glacier travel brings us to camp 1, on the glacier at 5,200 m. This camp is used for the normal route.
We will walk 2 o 3 hours more and look for our camp 1 (5400 m.) under the crevasse of access to "el escudo"
DAY 7.- We will climb the 600 m. (D+, 60 - 70º) of "el escudo". Is neccesary all the experiencie in ice and a good acclimatization. After of the summit, the descent is for the normal route to usual camp 2.(5900 m.)
Recommended date : June - September.
Level: Exigent, for experimented climbers.