Duration : acclimatization, 2 days and 15 days in trekking and mountain.
Itinerary:
Day 1 .- Huaraz (3090m) - Cashapampa (2800m) - Llamacorral (3800m) At 07:00 am we leave Huaraz with a small bus ("Combi") towards Cashapampa, the starting point of our trek. A street in good condition leads us through the Callejón de Huaylas. In Caraz (2290m) we stop to see the the market and add some typical food to our provisions. The following dirtroad to Cashapampa (2 hours from Caraz) is very steep.
Arriving in Cashapampa we meet our porters and donkeys, who will accompany us during the next days. Very important for this day is a good mosquito protection. By 12:30 we begin our trek through the beautiful Santa Cruz valley.
The path starts with a soft ascent at the edge of the Santa Cruz river. The vegetation becomes generous and the diversity of the plant is astonishing. Very soon we can see the some glaciers of the Cordillera Blanca. At about 3 pm we arrive at our first camp: a large meadow at the river with a good view at the impressing soutface of the TAULLIRAJU (5830m).
Day 2.- Llamacorral (3800m) - Taullipampa (4250m) After our first night in the high mountains we continue our trek at 9 am towards Taullipampa. We slowly gain altitude and in 3850m come to our first mountain lake with name Ichicocha (Cocha means mountain lake in Quechua). Half an hour later we arrive at our second lake (Jatuncocha, 3900m), which impresses us with its intensively turquois water. Later we see at the left hand site the famous Alpamayo (5947m), which for many people is the most beautiful mountain in the world. The Alpamayo basecamp could be reached in one hour from here. We continue our trip and arrive at the next camping site at 2 pm. From here we see the best of the Cordillera Blanca: in the northwest the Alpamayo and the Quitaraju, in the Southwest the Artesonraju (6025m) and in the north the Taulliraju (5830m) and the Rinrijirca (5810m)
Day 3.- Taullipampa (4100m) - Punta Union pass (4750m) - Huaripampa (3800m) Today we face the hardest stage of the Santa Cruz trek: the pass Punta Unión with 4750m. However, the view at the Taulliraju, which we are approching, rewards us for all our efforts. After a 3 hour ascent we made it and deserve a break with an overwelming panorama. The descent is easy and perhaps enables us to see some Condors. Camp in Cachinapampa ( 3,800 m.)
Day 4.- Huaripampa (3800m) - Paccha (4000m) Today`s destination is called Paccha. The trial leads us through a beautiful tract on a soft grass floor - a great boon for our punished feeds. We pass the second andenean village called Vaquería (3900m) - here we also can go for a short "shopping" tour. After some serpentines we come to an asphalt street and search for a suitable camping site on the right hand side of it close to the river.
Ascento to Pachha (4,000 m.) Camp.
Day 5.- Paccha (4000m) - Portachuelo Pass (4767m) - Cebollapampa (3950m) - Huaraz Today we cross the second pass Portachuelo (4767m) Descent and visit to the mountain lakes Llanganuco - Orconcocha (3857m) and Chinancocha (3850m) Descent to excelent place with views to the mountains, Cebollapampa.
Day 6.- Rest in Cebollapampa
Visit to 69 leke (optional)
Excelent view to Chacraraju west face.
PISCO ASCENT
Day 7.- The walk to Pisco base camp can be steep and difficult in the warm mid-day sun so an early start would be advisable. The small trees and forests provide some cool shade until the altitude provides a coolness of its own. The path meanders from the valley floor, crossing several rivers, before ascending the hillside. Finally, the sparse trees give way to an open valley at the head of which we will find the base camp and refuge "Peru".
The head of the valley is dominated by a large moraine, which bounds the right flank of the Huandoy glacier.
The path will now take us straight up the steep moraine. Once on the crest, we shall walk along the top facing towards Huandoy before descending steeply down the other side and on to the boulder covered glacier below. There are many footpaths marked by "hitos" that lead across the glacier to the far side. Morrena camp (4900 m.) is located amongst boulders beside a small mountain lake at the tip of the Pisco glacier. Time: 4 to 6 hours, from cebollapampa (3800 m.)
Day 8 , 3 a.m. start the ascento to the summit.
We will gain the glacier just beyond the lake and follow it without difficulty to the Huandoy-Pisco Col (5,350m). From here, the route climbs broad slopes towards the summit. Although never steep (up to 35°), we will need to be careful in picking our route through crevasses and over snow bridges before approaching the final summit section. Here we may encounter the steepest snow slope, a short pitch of 40°, before pulling on to the summit. Our ascent will be rewarded by absolutely brilliant views ( 360 °), especially of Chacraraju and Huascaran.
Is the most view from a summit in cordillera Blanca.
Some seasons, is posible find ice walls ( 10 - 30 m.).
Return to base camp.
Day 9 : Descent to cebollapampa and return to Huaraz.
Optional: Make the descent from portachuelo de Llanganuco to Yungay in mountain bike (2200 m. in down hill)
Day 10.- Rest in Huaraz
HUASCARAN ASCENT
Day 11.- Leaving Huaraz very early on this day we drive to the town of Musho (3400 m.), the jumping off point for Huascarán. Here, we load our gear on burros we hike with day packs to Huascarán Base Camp at an elevation of 4,200 m. The walk to Base Camp normally takes about 4 hours
Day 12.- As we climb above Base Camp the route becomes more difficult, taking a complex path up and around huge glacially polished granite slabs.
Before the glacier is possible to visit refuge "Don Bosco" 4,900 m.
We arrive at the edge of the ice itself. An additional 2 hours of glacier travel brings us to camp 1, on the glacier at 5,200 m. This camp is used for the normal route.
We will walk 2 o 3 hours more and look for our camp 1 (5400 m.) under the crevasse of access to "el escudo"
Day 13.- We will climb the 600 m. (D+, 60 - 70º) of "el escudo". Is neccesary all the experiencie in ice and a good acclimatization. After of the summit, the descent is for the normal route to usual camp 2.(5900 m.)
Day 14.- Descent to base camp.
Day 15.- From base camp, we will descend to Musho to be met by the transport. Our vehicles will be a welcome sight, especially as they will whisk us back to Huaraz.
Recommended date : June - September.
Level: Exigent, for experimented climbers.
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