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EXPEDITIONS PERU 2008
ANDES PERU
MOUNTAIN - TREKKING PERU
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CORDILLERA BLANCA - MOUNTAIN
ASCENTO TO ALPAMAYO(5947 m.)
SOUTH HUASCARAN (6768 m.)
12 DAYS.
Duration : acclimatization, 2 days and 12 days in mountain.
Itinerary:
ALPAMAYO ASCENT
Day 1: This day , Leaving early we drive to the northern end of the range to the town of Cashapampa (2,800 m.). This is where we begin the two day trek to Base Camp. After loading our gear on burros, we set out carrying only light day packs. We enter the valley of the Rio Santa Cruz, narrow at its entrance but widening as we climb further into the range.
After about a 6 hour walk (including breaks) we arrive at our first camp, Jatuncocha lakeat 3,900 m.
Day 2 :We start trekking, after our breakfast, passing the blue-green colour lakes called Ichik Cocha and Jatun Cocha, in 4 hours we have got the Base Camp Arhuaycocha, then we'll start to prepare our climbing equipment for the next day. overnight camping at 4200 aprox
Day 3.- Climb to the Col camp at 5300m. (This section can sometimes be the most technical part of the entire climb). The high col is between Alpamayo and it's sister peak, Quitaraju. The guides will fix ropes in advance of the group on one steep section. One fixed rope and two belayed sections are normal in order to reach the col.
Day 4: Ascent to the summit of Alpamayo, lying at 5947m. The climb starts with a reasonably steep glacier to the bergschrund. There are several steep ice pitches, around 50°. The final couple of pitches increase to 70° resulting in grading of around Alpine AD/AD+ or Ice Grade 3. We allow 7 hours to reach the summit. Return to the Col Camp.
Day 5: Return to the base camp.
Day 6: Return to Cashapampa and then Huaraz.
Day 7.- Rest in Huaraz.
HUASCARAN ASCENT
Day 8.- Leaving Huaraz very early on this day we drive to the town of Musho, the jumping off point for Huascarán. Here, we load our gear on burros we hike with day packs to Huascarán Base Camp at an elevation of 4,200 m. The walk to Base Camp normally takes about 4 hours.
Day 9.- As we climb above Base Camp the route becomes more difficult, taking a complex path up and around huge glacially polished granite slabs.
Before the glacier is possible to visit refuge "Don Bosco" 4,900 m.
we arrive at the edge of the ice itself. An additional 2 hours of glacier travel brings us to camp 1, on the glacier at 5,200 m. We will use porters to carry much of the group gear to this camp.
Day 10.- This day we move up to High Camp (camp 2), located in "La Garganta" (The Throat - 6,00 m.), a broad saddle between the north and south summits. As we climb through the increasingly broken glacier, we encounter short section of technical climbing including ice up to about 60 degrees "la canaleta". Again, we will have the aid of porters to carry some of our group gear.
In this passage is common the presence of great crevasses in the glacier.
Day 11.- The advantage of the trek and ascent of Pisco and a gradual acclimatisation will be appreciated today. With the benefit of the climb of the Garganta behind us, the 35° to 40° snow slopes on summit day will be taken in our stride. Leaving our camp on the Col very early, we will cross towards the slopes below the South Summit. We will then climb a short easy angled snow couloir before traversing right, across the face, towards a small group of seracs. From here, we will join the final slope and climb south-east straight up to the summit.
Time: 8 hours to the summit, 4 hours return to camp 2.
Day 12.- Descent to base camp.
Day 13.- From base camp, we will descend to Musho to be met by the transport. Our vehicles will be a welcome sight, especially as they will whisk us back to Huaraz.
Note.- The Huascaran normal route or "la garganta" has become very dangerous over the last 2 years so it has been modified in order to reach the north peak or do the route of "el escudo "(400 m , 55-60 degrees on technical ice)
This is defined according to the advent of the mountain season.
Recommended date : june - september
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