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EXPEDITIONS PERU 2008
ANDES PERU
MOUNTAIN - TREKKING PERU
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CORDILLERA BLANCA - MOUNTAIN
ASCENT TO PISCO (5752 m.)
ALPAMAYO (5947 m.)
9 DAYS.
Duration : acclimatization, 2 days and 9 days in mountain.
Itinerary:
PISCO ASCENT
Day 1.- The walk to Pisco base camp can be steep and difficult in the warm mid-day sun so an early start would be advisable. The small trees and forests provide some cool shade until the altitude provides a coolness of its own. The path meanders from the valley floor, crossing several rivers, before ascending the hillside. Finally, the sparse trees give way to an open valley at the head of which we will find the base camp and refuge "Peru".
The head of the valley is dominated by a large moraine, which bounds the right flank of the Huandoy glacier.
The path will now take us straight up the steep moraine. Once on the crest, we shall walk along the top facing towards Huandoy before descending steeply down the other side and on to the boulder covered glacier below. There are many footpaths marked by "hitos" that lead across the glacier to the far side. Morrena camp is located amongst boulders beside a small mountain lake at the tip of the Pisco glacier. Time: 4 to 6 hours, from cebollapampa.
Day 2 , 3 a.m. start the ascento to the summit.
We will gain the glacier just beyond the lake and follow it without difficulty to the Huandoy-Pisco Col (5,350m). From here, the route climbs broad slopes towards the summit. Although never steep (up to 35°), we will need to be careful in picking our route through crevasses and over snow bridges before approaching the final summit section. Here we may encounter the steepest snow slope, a short pitch of 40°, before pulling on to the summit. Our ascent will be rewarded by absolutely brilliant views, especially of Chacraraju and Huascaran.
Is the most view from a summit in cordillera Blanca.
Since 2004, in the route exist a ice wall ( 40 m. 70 °)
Return to base camp.
Day 3 : Descent to cebollapampa and return to Huaraz.
Day 4.- Rest in Huaraz.
ALPAMAYO ASCENT
Day 5: This day , Leaving early we drive to the northern end of the range to the town of Cashapampa (2,800 m.). This is where we begin the two day trek to Base Camp. After loading our gear on burros, we set out carrying only light day packs. We enter the valley of the Rio Santa Cruz, narrow at its entrance but widening as we climb further into the range.
After about a 6 hour walk (including breaks) we arrive at our first camp, Jatuncocha lakeat 3,900 m.
Day 6 :We start trekking, after our breakfast, passing the blue-green colour lakes called Ichik Cocha and Jatun Cocha, in 4 hours we have got the Base Camp Arhuaycocha, then we'll start to prepare our climbing equipment for the next day. overnight camping at 4200 aprox
Day 7.- Climb to the Col camp at 5300m. (This section can sometimes be the most technical part of the entire climb). The high col is between Alpamayo and it's sister peak, Quitaraju. The guides will fix ropes in advance of the group on one steep section. One fixed rope and two belayed sections are normal in order to reach the col.
Day 8: Ascent to the summit of Alpamayo, lying at 5947m. The climb starts with a reasonably steep glacier to the bergschrund. There are several steep ice pitches, around 50°. The final couple of pitches increase to 70° resulting in grading of around Alpine AD/AD+ or Ice Grade 3. We allow 7 hours to reach the summit. Return to the Col Camp.
Day 9: Return to the base camp.
Day 10: Return to Cashapampa and then Huaraz.
Recommended date : june - september
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