Duration : acclimatization, 2 days and 14 days in mountain.
Itinerary:
The first day , A Leaving Huaraz early we drive a short way north, downstream in the Callejon de Huaylas, the large valley that borders the Cordillera Blanca on its west side. Soon we turn east and climb up to the town of Pashpa (3,200 m.) From here, we load our equipment on burros and begin the easy trek into Base Camp. The trek normally takes only about 4 hours. This is a lovely walk, passing through dense forests of Quenual trees before emerging into the upper broad valley where we will establish our base camp at about 4,600 m.
This will be our home for the next 8 days, and other than the high camp in Tocllaraju we may elect to place during our ascents around the valley we will get to enjoy the relative comfort of of a well equipped cooking tent.
Is possible to visit the refuge "Ishinca" in the environs of base camp.
Day 2: We wake up early at 4am. for the ascent of Urus. After breakfast we live from our camp at 5am. Our route up the southeast ridge are a rock and on snow presents a few difficulties pass, climb in the nicer glacier for final steep summit slope. Roundtrip will take between 10-12 hours.
Day 3.- Rest in the base camp..
Day 4: We wake up early in the morning at 2am breakfast, prepare all the our mountain gear, our ascent of Ishinca ( north roth ) is over easy glacier terrain, perfect for perfecting our rope traveling technique. Our way up one route and descending another way near of the foot of Ranrapalca mountain. Of course If time and conditions permit we may be able to traverse the peak. After the climb we return to high camp where we spend the night or pack up and return to base camp.
The descent is for the south route.
Day 5.- After breakfast we live from or base camp, once again we make our way to a higher camp for the climb of our main objective nevado Tocllaraju. From our high camp at 5244m. We have incredible views of the surrounding peaks and the valley and lakes far below. Dinner and early to bed
Day 6.- We live early in the night at 2am from the high camp. This will be a long day for the climb of Tocllaraju. Easy to moderate glacier terrain leads to the final summit pyramid where we encounter several steep snow and ice pitches up to 60 degrees that may require belaying depending on conditions. The accent of this peak is more technical and will challenge all of the skills we have developed. If we have a good weather conditions the views is a incredible panoramic around you're from Toclllaraju's summit. From the summit we descend to our high camp for one final night in the Cordillera Blanca. Retur to base camp.
Day 7 : Return to base camp on Ishinca valley and hike out for the road head to Huaraz.
note: For experimented climbers, we have the option for the wets face (600 m. D)
Dat 8.- Rest in Huaraz
HUASCARAN ASCENT
Day 9.- Leaving Huaraz very early on this day we drive to the town of Musho, the jumping off point for Huascarán. Here, we load our gear on burros we hike with day packs to Huascarán Base Camp at an elevation of 4,200 m. The walk to Base Camp normally takes about 4 hours.
Day 10.- As we climb above Base Camp the route becomes more difficult, taking a complex path up and around huge glacially polished granite slabs.
Before the glacier is possible to visit refuge "Don Bosco" 4,900 m.
we arrive at the edge of the ice itself. An additional 2 hours of glacier travel brings us to camp 1, on the glacier at 5,200 m. We will use porters to carry much of the group gear to this camp.
Day 11.- This day we move up to High Camp (camp 2), located in "La Garganta" (The Throat - 6,00 m.), a broad saddle between the north and south summits. As we climb through the increasingly broken glacier, we encounter short section of technical climbing including ice up to about 60 degrees "la canaleta". Again, we will have the aid of porters to carry some of our group gear.
In this passage is common the presence of great crevasses in the glacier.
Day 12.- The advantage of the trek and ascent of Pisco and a gradual acclimatisation will be appreciated today. With the benefit of the climb of the Garganta behind us, the 35° to 40° snow slopes on summit day will be taken in our stride. Leaving our camp on the Col very early, we will cross towards the slopes below the South Summit. We will then climb a short easy angled snow couloir before traversing right, across the face, towards a small group of seracs. From here, we will join the final slope and climb south-east straight up to the summit.
Time: 8 hours to the summit, 4 hours return to camp 2. (aprox)
Day 13.- Descent to base camp.
Day 14.- From base camp, we will descend to Musho to be met by the transport. Our vehicles will be a welcome sight, especially as they will whisk us back to Huaraz.
Recommended date : june - september
