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EXPEDITIONS PERU 2008
ANDES PERU
MOUNTAIN - TREKKING PERU
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CORDILLERA BLANCA - MOUNTAIN
ASCENTO TO ALPAMAYO (5947 m.)
QUITARAJU (6034 m.)
8 DAYS.
Duration : acclimatization, 2 days and 8 days in mountain.
Considered by many to be the world’s most beautiful mountain, an ascent of Alpamayo is an achievement valued and recognized by mountaineers the world over. We ascent follows the “Ferrari Route” up the steep, fluted southwest face of the mountain. From a scenic high camp, we’ll cross a small glacier, surpass a tricky bergschrund, and climb eight pitches of snow and ice, gradually steepening to nearly 80 degrees. The last 300 m. offers beautiful blue water ice and ends at a knife-edged summit ridge.
And if this spectacular climb weren’t enough, from our Alpamayo high camp we’ll also attempt the north face of Quitaraju.This expedition is ideal for those seeking technical challenge at high altitude.
Itinerary:
ALPAMAYO AND QUITARAJU
Day 1: This day , Leaving early we drive to the northern end of the range to the town of Cashapampa (2,800 m.). This is where we begin the two day trek to Base Camp. After loading our gear on burros, we set out carrying only light day packs. We enter the valley of the Rio Santa Cruz, narrow at its entrance but widening as we climb further into the range.
After about a 6 hour walk (including breaks) we arrive at our first camp, Jatuncocha lakeat 3,900 m.
Day 2 :We start trekking, after our breakfast, passing the blue-green colour lakes called Ichik Cocha and Jatun Cocha, in 4 hours we have got the Base Camp Arhuaycocha, then we'll start to prepare our climbing equipment for the next day. overnight camping at 4200 aprox
Day 3.- Climb to the Col camp at 5300m. (This section can sometimes be the most technical part of the entire climb). The high col is between Alpamayo and it's sister peak, Quitaraju. The guides will fix ropes in advance of the group on one steep section. One fixed rope and two belayed sections are normal in order to reach the col.
Day 4: Ascent to the summit of Alpamayo, lying at 5947m. The climb starts with a reasonably steep glacier to the bergschrund. There are several steep ice pitches, around 50°. The final couple of pitches increase to 70° resulting in grading of around Alpine AD/AD+ or Ice Grade 3. We allow 7 hours to reach the summit. Return to the Col Camp.
Day 5: Rest in the col camp.
Day 6: Ascento to Quitaraju north wall - 400 m. 55 - 60
degrees. The route finish is for the ridge before to the summit.
After reaching the summit, we will return to the base camp.
Days 7 and 8, Return to Cashapampa
through quebrada Santa Cruz.
Return to Huaraz
Recommended date : june - september
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