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EXPEDITIONS PERU 2008
ANDES PERU
MOUNTAIN - TREKKING PERU
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CORDILLERA BLANCA - MOUNTAIN
ASCENTO TO PISCO (5752 m.)
CHOPICALQUIi (6354 m.)
9 DAYS.
Duration : acclimatization, 2 days and 9 days in mountain.
Chopicalqui is the fourth highest mountain in the Cordillera Blanca. It is located immediately northeast of Peru's highest mountain, Huascaran (22,204 ft.). Though overshadowed by Huascar·n in height, Chopicalqui is a similarly large mountain, both high and massive, with steep and narrow glacial ridges.
Itinerary:
PISCO ASCENT
Day 1.- The walk to Pisco base camp can be steep and difficult in the warm mid-day sun so an early start would be advisable. The small trees and forests provide some cool shade until the altitude provides a coolness of its own. The path meanders from the valley floor, crossing several rivers, before ascending the hillside. Finally, the sparse trees give way to an open valley at the head of which we will find the base camp and refuge "Peru".
The head of the valley is dominated by a large moraine, which bounds the right flank of the Huandoy glacier.
The path will now take us straight up the steep moraine. Once on the crest, we shall walk along the top facing towards Huandoy before descending steeply down the other side and on to the boulder covered glacier below. There are many footpaths marked by "hitos" that lead across the glacier to the far side. Morrena camp is located amongst boulders beside a small mountain lake at the tip of the Pisco glacier. Time: 4 to 6 hours, from cebollapampa.
Day 2 , 3 a.m. start the ascento to the summit.
We will gain the glacier just beyond the lake and follow it without difficulty to the Huandoy-Pisco Col (5,350m). From here, the route climbs broad slopes towards the summit. Although never steep (up to 35°), we will need to be careful in picking our route through crevasses and over snow bridges before approaching the final summit section. Here we may encounter the steepest snow slope, a short pitch of 40°, before pulling on to the summit. Our ascent will be rewarded by absolutely brilliant views, especially of Chacraraju and Huascaran.
Is the most view from a summit in cordillera Blanca.
Since 2004, in the route exist a ice wall ( 40 m. 70 °)
Return to base camp.
Day 3 : Descent to cebollapampa.
Day 5. From Cebollapampa, we continue in our process of acclimatization this day we hike up to our Chopicalqui base camp (4,300 m.) . With the support of mules for carrying our loads this will be a reasonable 4 hour hike up with only daypacks on our backs.
Cebollapampa and Chopcalqui base camp
they are in the same zone.
CHOPICALQUI ASCENT
Day 6.- After breakfast we move to the Moraine Camp, located about 4900m. This day we will be a porter-assisted for our mountain gear put up to Camp.
Day 7.- After moving through the moraine above camp 1 we rope and climb on the glacier to our high camp about 5200m.
The route is glaciar and have some crevasses before the camp.
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before the summit (back, the huascaran)t |
Day 8.- Summit day. Early wake up (3 a.m. ), Relatively straightforward glacier travel leads to the saddle between Chopakalqui and the fascinating east ridge of south Huascaran . From the saddle glacier slopes interspersed with short steep sections (up to 60 degrees) lead to the wildly corniced and fluted summit at 6354mt.
Return to the Moraine Camp.
Day 9.- From base camp, we will descend to "curva Chopicalqui" to be met by the transport. Our vehicles will be a welcome sight, especially as they will whisk us back to Huaraz.
Recommended date : june - september
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