Duration : acclimatization, 2 days and 9 days in mountain.
Itinerary:
PISCO ASCENT
Day 1.- The walk to Pisco base camp can be steep and difficult in the warm mid-day sun so an early start would be advisable. The small trees and forests provide some cool shade until the altitude provides a coolness of its own. The path meanders from the valley floor, crossing several rivers, before ascending the hillside. Finally, the sparse trees give way to an open valley at the head of which we will find the base camp and refuge "Peru".
The head of the valley is dominated by a large moraine, which bounds the right flank of the Huandoy glacier.
The path will now take us straight up the steep moraine. Once on the crest, we shall walk along the top facing towards Huandoy before descending steeply down the other side and on to the boulder covered glacier below. There are many footpaths marked by "hitos" that lead across the glacier to the far side. Morrena camp (4900 m.) is located amongst boulders beside a small mountain lake at the tip of the Pisco glacier. Time: 4 to 6 hours, from cebollapampa (3800 m.)
Day 2 , 3 a.m. start the ascento to the summit.
We will gain the glacier just beyond the lake and follow it without difficulty to the Huandoy-Pisco Col (5,350m). From here, the route climbs broad slopes towards the summit. Although never steep (up to 35°), we will need to be careful in picking our route through crevasses and over snow bridges before approaching the final summit section. Here we may encounter the steepest snow slope, a short pitch of 40°, before pulling on to the summit. Our ascent will be rewarded by absolutely brilliant views ( 360 °), especially of Chacraraju and Huascaran.
Is the most view from a summit in cordillera Blanca.
Some seasons, is posible find ice walls ( 10 - 30 m.).
Return to base camp.
Day 3 : Descent to cebollapampa.
Day 4.- Rest in Cebollapampa.
CHOPICALQUI ASCENT
Day 5: We will hike up to the Moraine Camp (4800 m.) for about 4 hours, during this hike we will enjoy the splendid view in the north site like Pisco, Huandoys and Chacraraju peaks.
Day 6 :After the breakfast we will climb up for about 40 minutes over the rocky paths to get the glacier, where we will put our climbing gears to start climbing for about 3 hours to the Camp 1 (5500m).
Day 7.- This day will be a little hard to climb, we will leave at 3:00am in the morning after breakfast, climbing for about 4 to 5 hours will get the summit (6534), then after enjoy the views for few minutes will come back to the Camp 1, where the cook will be waiting with hot water to drink, then we will continue go down to Moraine Camp for about 2 hours more.
Day 8: Return to Huaraz.
Recommended date : june - september