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INTERVIEW : PAVLE KOZJEK
by nuestramontana.com
The Slovenian alpinist, mountain lover with a especial memory of the cordillera blanca will come back to the Peruvian Andes to climb another mountain in the cordillera blanca and another one in huayhuash, opening, as he himself comments in the interview, at least one of them.
In 1985, along with a powerful team of his country, he opened a route in the East face of cerro torre, which he defines as his perfect mountain, he is also one of the few people to climb the Everest without supplementary oxygen by the Tibetan side. From Slovenia, Pavle gives us an interview in which he highlights important aspects of his life as extreme alpinist and continuous fight to survive in the farthests mountains of the world. To
" I feel like mountains an people living below their summits are one integrity, different in a different parts of the world..."
Where is fear when you climb, lets say, the north wall of south Huandoy by yourself in only one day.
There is fear, I feel it sometimes, and I think it should be present when you are soloing, to prevent you making things that are too dangerous. But it should never be a panic fear - if should just warn you when you approach your limits. The main point is that your limits are high enough to start such projects, and limits are pushed high by training and - more important - by experience. And when I'm soloing I never forget to check about my possibilities to return if things go bad.
Many of the routes you have opened in different mountains around the world are considered "extreme", don't you think there is too much risk in this or is it something you have learned how to deal with.
Some of my routes I would not do again, this is true. At the beginning of climbing career, you don't know much about the danger-this is the most risky and dangerous period.
Then you know the danger, and you are ready to face it, you go for a high risk. And finally, you risk less and using all the experience, and it does not mean lower quality of climbing. I think now I'm risking only about 70 % of "danger degree" of my early climbs. I have an impression that I have spent most of my "bonus points" and should not be too brave for the rest of my climbing. I also think that family and children make you more careful.
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Huandoy sur, in this face , Pavle Kozjek has climb 2 new routes, one in solo (right rock wall)
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Slovenian Alpinism is currently one of the world's bests given that many of its representatives, including yourself, are the main characters of great ascensions around the world, how do you see its status and what is the reason for the fast evolution of alpinism in your country.
There were many circumstances thet Slovenian alpinism reached so high level. First is alpine tradition and the good reputation of climbing in our country, second is our specific national political-economic situation some 25 years ago - for a small republic of former Yugoslavia (2 millions people), climbing was one of the ways to build identity. And of course there was a very strong generation that took some good new ideas (serious training, free ascents) and worked hard. A few younger climbers are following this now, but I have an impression that not all talented climbers are ready to suffer so much for the highest goals. There's no easy way to be as top alpinist, so I'm in a way worried for the future.
We know you frequently visit the cordillera blanca and huayhuash and that you have opened some of the most difficult routes like those of Huandoy or Siula Grande, what is the difference between these mountains and those of Himalaya, most of which you have also visited, is there a especial feeling about them ?
Although Andes are not small, there is difference in dimensions, distances and time you need for climb. With my job (head of IT department at Statistics Slovenia ) I can hardly afford to stay in himalayan BC for a month, waiting weather and conditions. But if I come to Andes for 3 weeks I'm almost sure I can climb something good. Experience from big Himalayan faces is very helpful for success in the Andes .
What has been the most dificult experience you have had when climbing, both technically and emotionally.
It's a hard decision, but I would choose winter bivouac at about 8050 m on Daulagiri, on 3 rd December 1987 . I spent a terrible cold night alone and without any bivouac equipment in a crevasse just below the final culoir. I was late for the summit, but I didn't want to go back - the top was so close. But in the morning I was happy I could go down, even without the summit.
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Everest without supplementary oxygen |
Equipment has noticeably evolved in the past 10 years, do you think this is influencing the success of climbing nowadays.
This is sure, but It's fascinating to see what some best climbers from the past were able to do with a very boring equipment. Sometimes I wonder if - with the equipment from today - they won't be even better than the current generation. I'm talking about alpinism, not sports climbing.
Do you feel more attracted to the 8,000's in the Himalaya or to the short expeditions where compromise and technical difficulties are greater.
I feel good in both, Himalaya and shorter climbs. But after Everest I was advised not to spend too much time on extreme altitude. It looks like spending a lot of time above 8000 m left some consequences to my lungs, and probably I will choose some more technical challenges in the future.
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