Trekking to San Blas
Trekking from the Pacific side of Panama to the Caribbean is something extraordinary, something mythical, reminiscent of the expeditions of the first discoverers in the search of the South Sea. Today, trekking from ocean to ocean captures the excitement of the big adventure of the past. This crossing ends at the virtually untouched San Blas Islands. The San Blas Islands consist of 365 coral islands (like the Maldives), which lie in front of the untouched Caribbean coast of Panama. The Kuna population inhabits only a small percentage of these palm-covered islands.
The indigenous Comarca of Kuna Yala
The Islands are part of Kuna Yala, also called San Blas, an autonomous territory of the Kuna Indians that also includes a strip of mainland stretching 373 km (232 mi). The Kuna’s huts stand densely packed on the islands they inhabit. A visit to their villages is like a trip back in time before the bustle of modernity; there are no roads in the Comarca of Kuna Yala, so boats and planes are the most important means of transportation. Our visit supports the Kuna indigenous population, as they own and operate all businesses in Kuna Yala.
Trekking through pristine jungle
We start our trekking close to the continental divide of Panama. In the morning we hike through cattle ranches, and soon after we are surrounded by pristine rainforests. Here we can observe many different species of wildlife; easiest are birds and plants, but with luck we may also see mammals. These rainforests form part of an autonomous reserve of the Kuna Indians, who use the rainforests in a sustainable manner much as their ancestors did. This helps to account for the good state of conservation of these rainforests. We spend the first nights in the huts of the Kuna Indians; first at a camp in the jungle, and then in a village on the mainland. This experience allows us to note the cultural differences that make the mainland Kuna villages unique from the much-visited villages on the islands.
Welcome to Paradise
After two days of hiking, we finally reach the paradisiacal San Blas Islands. The Islands of San Bas are made of coral reefs that evolved with time into small islands covered by palm trees. Here we lie on white sandy beaches and swim in turquoise waters. The snorkelling around the reefs is amazing; one can enjoy the colours of Caribbean reefs and marine life. We spend the night in a rustic camp on the island and our Kuna cooks prepare some delicious recently-caught seafood for us.
Itinerary
1. Day: Arrival in Chepo
In the late afternoon, we drive to Chepo, the starting point of our Isthmus crossing. We sleep here in a simple local hotel.
2. Day: From the continental divide…
Early in the morning, we drive with an adapted 4WD bus to the last village connected by road. There we start our trekking; first we cross some cattle ranches and then we are surrounded by untouched primary rainforests. With luck, we may observe Howler monkeys, sloths, Coatis, Toucans and many other tropical birds. After five to six hours of trekking, we reach a camp set up by the Kuna Indians, where a hot dinner awaits us and we spend the night.
3. Day: along the Rio Gangandi …
We continue our trekking to the Caribbean Sea following the Gangandi River, which we cross several times. It leads us to a Kuna village with the same name. Along the path, we see huge rainforest trees and a variety of birds. After an estimated four to six hours, we get to the village Gangandi, where we meet the Saila (the chief) who invites us into the gathering house. There we hear more about the history and culture of the Kuna-Indians. We enjoy an Indian dinner and sleep in the village. [B,L,D]
4. – 5. Day: … to the San Blas Islands
In the morning we hike the some two hours more until we reach the Caribbean. There we board a small boat and motor out to the Islands of San Blas. After the adventurous Isthmus crossing we arrive in a real paradise. Here we enjoy white coral sand beaches with gorgeous turquoise waters; we snorkel around the reefs and see colourful marine life. We also visit an Island with a Kuna village, where we learn more about their society. [B,L,D]
6. Day: Return to Panama City
Early in the morning, a boat takes us to a small airstrip on the main land, which is served every day from Panama City. From here, we return via plane to Panama City. We arrive in Panama City around eight in the morning and return to our hotel.
Necessary equipment:
Hiking or trekking shoes
Trekking backpack
Rain coat or jacket
Hat, cap or bandanna
Hiking trousers (no jeans)
Repellent
Sleeping bag (you want imagine, but nights in the rainforests can be really cold)
Personal utensils
Biodegradable soap
Bring your camera or video!
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