|
How would you summarize your ascent to the Everest without supplementary oxygen.
It was my old wish, and I'm still happy because I've made it. At that time (1997) there were not many people at the top without oxygen from more technical Tibetan side (I think less than 10). I was physically and mentally fully prepared for that, and during ascent I never doubted about my success, although I climbed alone in from the 2 nd step. I was so focused that probably I would make it even if it was 9000 m high. But I have no wish to make it again. There are other challenges, and I think life is too short to repeat the things already done.
Do you fell the same for mountains in the alpes, andes and himalaya or every single one has a especial meaning for you.
I feel them very different, as impressions: italian Dolomites as rock towers above green valleys, Alps (Chamonix) as crowded by too many people, Yosemite-El Cap as hanging bivouacs on oceans of granite, Patagonia as needles, storms and ice caves, peruvian Andes as sunshine, ice and huayno, Karakorum: long snakes of glaciers, Nepal Himalaya: yaks, long approaches and thin air. I feel like mountains an people living below their summits are one integrity, different in a different parts of the world.
Do you think there is a perfect mountain.
Yes, but every climber has it's own. If I'm looking for a new route on the mountain, for me is an art to find a fine, natural line in an "impossible" looking face: like Fowler-Ramsden route in Siguniang face, for instance. But first of all, a perfect mountain must be a good looking, an if I need to decide for a montain, I would say Cerro Torre.
Which have been your latest activities in the mountain.
I've been to New Zealand end of February and beginning if March. Just three days in the montains, but it was enough to climb a beautiful S face of Mt. Hicks in Southern Alps : thin ice on vertical rocks, not easy to find protection. The real thing. I'm sure I will come back and spend there more time, although it is on the other side of the earth.
Do you plan to return to Peru in 2004? What will be your aim.
Probably I will return. I'm thinking about a mountain in Blanca and another in Huayhusah, and in one of them I will try to open a new route. Maybe it's too much for 3 weeks, but I'm allways trying to use my time very well. I've been 9 times in Peru , but I still didn't find time to see Macchu Picchu. But - there I can go when I'm 70, haha.
One more thing, do you know what is being planned in Huascaran national park a regulation that would oblige "all" climbers to take the guide and donkey-driver services and that would also prohibit climbing on the east faces of every mountain as well as the repetition of many routes or new apertures. What do you think about it?
I have heard something about new regulations being prepared, but not so strange... Taking a guide and donkey driver seems to be something like taking liason officer at Himalaya : getting more money from climbers. It's nothing wrong if it helps local people, but I think that most of the money will go to the wrong pockets. Blanca and Huayhuash are so nice mountains also because they are still very natural, not covered by too many rules and regulations like many other mountains. I personally have nothing against to pay some more for entrance in the park, but I don't like to take care of some prohibitions, guides and donkey drivers... So, I'm not happy with planned rules.
Sergio Ramírez Carrascal
nuestramontaña.com
|
|
