Duration : acclimatization, 2 days and 10 days in mountain.
Itinerary:
PISCO ASCENT
Day 1.- The walk to Pisco base camp can be steep and difficult in the warm mid-day sun so an early start would be advisable. The small trees and forests provide some cool shade until the altitude provides a coolness of its own. The path meanders from the valley floor, crossing several rivers, before ascending the hillside. Finally, the sparse trees give way to an open valley at the head of which we will find the base camp and refuge "Peru".
The head of the valley is dominated by a large moraine, which bounds the right flank of the Huandoy glacier.
The path will now take us straight up the steep moraine. Once on the crest, we shall walk along the top facing towards Huandoy before descending steeply down the other side and on to the boulder covered glacier below. There are many footpaths marked by "hitos" that lead across the glacier to the far side. Morrena camp (4900 m.) is located amongst boulders beside a small mountain lake at the tip of the Pisco glacier. Time: 4 to 6 hours, from cebollapampa (3800 m.)
Day 2 , 3 a.m. start the ascento to the summit.
We will gain the glacier just beyond the lake and follow it without difficulty to the Huandoy-Pisco Col (5,350m). From here, the route climbs broad slopes towards the summit. Although never steep (up to 35°), we will need to be careful in picking our route through crevasses and over snow bridges before approaching the final summit section. Here we may encounter the steepest snow slope, a short pitch of 40°, before pulling on to the summit. Our ascent will be rewarded by absolutely brilliant views ( 360 °), especially of Chacraraju and Huascaran.
Is the most view from a summit in cordillera Blanca.
Some seasons, is posible find ice walls ( 10 - 30 m.).
Return to base camp.
Day 3 : Descent to cebollapampa and return to Huaraz.
Day 4.- Rest in Huaraz.
HUASCARAN ASCENT
Day 5.- Leaving Huaraz very early on this day we drive to the town of Musho, the jumping off point for Huascarán. Here, we load our gear on burros we hike with day packs to Huascarán Base Camp at an elevation of 4,200 m. The walk to Base Camp normally takes about 4 hours.
Day 6.- As we climb above Base Camp the route becomes more difficult, taking a complex path up and around huge glacially polished granite slabs.
Before the glacier is possible to visit refuge "Don Bosco" 4,900 m.
we arrive at the edge of the ice itself. An additional 2 hours of glacier travel brings us to camp 1, on the glacier at 5,200 m. We will use porters to carry much of the group gear to this camp.
Day 7.- This day we move up to High Camp (camp 2), located in "La Garganta" (The Throat - 6,00 m.), a broad saddle between the north and south summits. As we climb through the increasingly broken glacier, we encounter short section of technical climbing including ice up to about 60 degrees "la canaleta". Again, we will have the aid of porters to carry some of our group gear.
In this passage is common the presence of great crevasses in the glacier.
Day 8.- The advantage of the trek and ascent of Pisco and a gradual acclimatisation will be appreciated today. With the benefit of the climb of the Garganta behind us, the 35° to 40° snow slopes on summit day will be taken in our stride. Leaving our camp on the Col very early, we will cross towards the slopes below the South Summit. We will then climb a short easy angled snow couloir before traversing right, across the face, towards a small group of seracs. From here, we will join the final slope and climb south-east straight up to the summit.
Time: 8 hours to the summit, 4 hours return to camp 2. (aprox)
Day 9.- Descent to base camp.
Day 10.- From base camp, we will descend to Musho to be met by the transport. Our vehicles will be a welcome sight, especially as they will whisk us back to Huaraz.
Recommended date : june - september
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